Bali irrigation system

SUBAK

and its uniqueness

Last update: 03/04/2024 20:52

overview

Balinese agriculture is world-famous for rice cultivation. Its terraced rice fields not only grace many Instagram profiles but also, what few people realize, are incredible engineering work over 1100 years old. The terraced fields are designed to manage water and allow locals to farm on the slopes of volcanoes and in places where this would not otherwise be possible and are also a socio-cultural-religious connection. This unique work is also a part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site and bears the name Subak standing for its unique irrigation system.

This Guide is divided into the following sections:

History

The first mention of rice cultivation in Bali dates back to the 9th century AD. It is believed that rice cultivation and the Subak system go hand in hand and are, therefore, two inseparable things. However, it is also believed that rice was also grown in Bali before the existence of Subak due to automatic irrigation with rainwater. The first written mention of the Kasubakan or Subak irrigation system dates back to 1071 AD.

Due to the topography of Bali, with its dense tropical forests and hilly terrain with river sources located below, it was almost impossible for farmers to get water to the fields above. Due to the extreme terrain conditions, the founders of Subak must have had a lot of knowledge in the past to produce a traditional irrigation system that features irrigation buildings that look very simple but still function today. The ability to build and manage the irrigation system has been passed on from generation to generation, so it has survived to this day.

Bali ricefields, Tegalalang part of Subak irrigation system

Ricefield terraces in Bali

Tegalalang rice terrases in Bali, Subak system

Tegalalang rice fields near Ubud

Subak Components

Subak is an autonomous organization owned by farmers and priests who regulate the water irrigation system for rice fields (and other crops).

The Subak system reflects the philosophical concept of Tri Hita Karana. To explain, Tri Hita Karana means "Three things causing happiness and well-being." Tri = three, Hita = happiness/well-being, Karana = cause. These three things are:

1. Parahyangan: A harmonious relationship between humans and God

2. Pawongan: A harmonious relationship between people with each other

3. Palemahan: Harmoniously relationship between people and nature/environment

Subak's system of democratic and egalitarian agricultural practices has enabled the Balinese to become the most prolific rice farmers in the archipelago despite its very dense population. Water distribution is done very equitably, and all problems are discussed and solved together, including the timing of planting and determining the type of rice to be planted.

Jatiluwih rice fields as a part of Subak system

In the event of a violation of the applicable written rules (Awig awig), which contain, among other things, penalties for infringement of rights and duties, the members agree among themselves on the punishment for the guilty member during ceremonies and rituals held in the water temples, which are an integral and essential part of the Subak system. Members of Subak (Krama Subak) are all farmers who take even a tiny amount of water out of it. Bali has around 1,200 water sources, and each source has between 50 and 400 farmers.

Subak components

The components of the Subak Irrigation system are:

Its members: farmers, priests (Manku), Subak leaders (Klian), and others (sponsors, village leaders, etc.)
Water temples: Pura Ulun Danu Batur, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan + others
Water sources: reservoirs, lakes, springs
Water canals and tunnels
Water distribution control buildings
Rice fields

💡 Tip: In 1981, the Subak Museum was opened near Kediri in the Tabanan area.

💡 Interesting Fact: Subak canals are not just for irrigating farmland. The locals use them for everyday activities such as bathing, laundry, breeding koi carp and other fish, fishing, crabbing, and, unfortunately, often to perform necessities💩.

Koi fish as a pet and food in Subak, Bali

Subak as a "pond" of Koi fish

Subak is great place to wash your scooter

Subak as a washing station

Subak as a a washing machine

Subak & Religion

The Subak system is intertwined with Balinese religion and ceremonies. Each Subak has a main temple known as "Pura Ulun Carik," dedicated to Dewi Sri, the Goddess of fertility and prosperity, or Dewi Danu, the Goddess of lakes, and was built directly by the farmers. These temples in Bali include Pura Ulun Danu Batur, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan, and others. Pura Ulun Danu means "temple on the water source" in translation.

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan Subak Water Temple, Bali

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan - very important Subak water temple

Pura Ulun Danu Tamblingan - water temple in the lake Tamblingan

Other smaller temples within the Subak system are called Pura Ulun Swi, located at the dams where the water first branches from the primary source. Pura Bedugul is a temple at the next branch leading to the paddy fields and may also be a stone shrine alone. At the level of the individual fields, there are self-standing Sanggah Catu shrines, which may also be made out of bamboo.

Stone Shrine in Subak

Bamboo Shrine in Subak

In total, there are approximately 16 different religious ceremonies that each Subak organization must worship and perform for various reasons. One such ritual is performed, for example, at the beginning of planting when water begins to be distributed to farmers through Subak channels. There are also ceremonies to protect the rice from diseases and pests. Other ceremonies are performed ten days before harvest to thank the Gods for their blessings. Other ceremonies (Pangwiwit) are performed only by priests before the rice fields are ready for planting. Small ceremonies are also done; the farmers perform these for their fields.

UNESCO

After ten years of Indonesia's efforts to include Subak in the UNESCO World Heritage List, it was achieved in 2012.

The following elements are inscribed as part of the Subak system:

Pura Ulun Danu Batur: the most crucial water temple
Lake Batur: the primary source of water for Subak
Pakerisan River Basin: the oldest part of the Subak system
Catur Angga Batukaru rice fields at the foot of the Batukaru volcano: part of the popular Jatiluwih rice fields
Taman Ayun Temple: a famous water temple symbolizing the rise of the Subak system under the Balinese kingdoms in the 18th century