overview
Cockfighting is common in Asian countries such as Vietnam, the Philippines, Thailand, and India. But they are also organized in Indonesia, mainly on the island of Bali, where they are widespread. Roosters bred for fighting can be seen all over the island in bamboo cages on the streets. It is practically impossible not to see them. However, few people would think that a seemingly innocent-looking rooster is condemned to fight to the death in an arena for gambling, often disguised as a religious ceremony.
This Guide is divided into the following sections:
History
The origin of cockfighting (Tajen) goes back several centuries and has religious overtones. In the village of Sukaluwih, as part of the Panca Yadnya ceremony, the Tabuh Rah ritual was performed. Tabuh means "to spill," and Rah means "blood." Thus, Tabuh Rah is the shedding of blood meant to end up on the earth, protecting Mother Earth and diverting everything terrible away from her. The blood is supposed to come from three roosters. So there were always three fights where the blood came from the defeated rooster. For this bloodshed to occur, a sharp blade Taji of about 10 cm was attached to the roosters' claws, which would cause one rooster to kill the other rather quickly.
In those days, which rooster would win was not crucial because Tabuh Rah is a blood ritual to protect the earth. After these three fights, the ceremony would begin, praying for the hope that salvation would be achieved. The ceremony is still performed almost all over Bali today in different variations but with the same intention. The matches are usually held in the largest temple pavilion Wantilan.
Other names for cockfighting: Tajen, Satha War, Meklecan, Ngadu
Cockfights are originally part of ceremony Tabuh Rah
Cock fights have very long cultural history in Bali
Tajen in 1936 in Bali
Cock Fighting Today
Tajen is now an exclusively male affair. Women only come to the arena to sell drinks and snacks to visitors. Balinese men treat their fighting cocks like pets. They groom and clean their feathers, pamper them, give them the best food, and talk to them. Often, the village men also get together and compare the roosters with each other and practice putting them together to groom them.
Proud owner of young rooster for Tajen carreer
Roosters are very often seen in bamboo cages Sangkar by the side of the road. This is to get them used to the hustle and bustle of the street and the people. There is undoubtedly no quiet in the arena during matches, and the rooster must not be disturbed by noise.
Rooster in the cage ready for cock fighting
Cockfighting is also a prestigious. If the rooster wins, the owner gains a lot of money and respect from the other men in the community.
But the dream wealth from winning is the goal many rooster owners want to reach. The stakes on individual matches often run into millions of rupias, and it is common for locals to sift through more than a month's salary in a single day.
The Course of the Match
At the start of the fight, the owners bring their fighters into the arena, where the judges always try to select those of similar height and strength for the fight. Once two roosters are chosen for the match, their owners call out their bets and begin tying a sharp 10cm blade Taji to the feathered rooster's legs.
Meanwhile, the crowd of spectators bets on their favorite at the referee's table. Once the bets are placed, the fight to the death can begin.
With a boisterous atmosphere and a drum beat, the roosters are released against each other, and the first round, lasting about 21 seconds, can begin. During these 21 seconds, the roosters must not be touched. However, if they are not fighting, they may be given a shout or a nudge to give them courage.
When the roosters refuse to fight each other, they are covered with a bamboo cage in one of the following rounds so they cannot get too far apart. A fight is usually inevitable by this stage, and the roosters will go at each other. If one strikes a precise blow with his knife and the opponent falls to the ground, the winner is picked off the ground to avoid unnecessary injuries. This ends the fight. The happy shouting bettors get their winnings, and the unhappy ones have no choice but to try their luck in the next match.
However, these rules are often simplified so there are no rounds, and the roosters are pitted against each other until one falls over.
A rooster killed during a match is immediately plucked in the arena and handed over to the owner of the winning rooster, who will probably make dinner out of it that day.
The atmosphere in the arena is something that makes cockfighting worth attending. Since the stakes are high, the emotions are intense—both positive and negative ones.
Cockfighting is considered an exciting hobby for Balinese men and a way to escape from the daily routine. The care of the roosters, their preparation, and the matches themselves are also a social, interpersonal activity in the village community.
The Tajen has even recently been declared a cultural attraction in the Gianyar area (including Ubud) and is, therefore, fully legal, as long as there is no betting (gambling).
Nowadays, most regular cockfights, including significant tournaments, are organized as gambling games and competitions to entertain participants and spectators. The religious and cultural significance is retained marginally.
Cockfighting is also often targeted by animal activists with concerns about animal cruelty. We'll leave it to everyone to judge for themselves. Indeed, not many similar "entertainment activities" in the world almost always end with the animal's death. They even say that before a fight, owners feed the roosters with coffee beans to give them more energy and put chili peppers in their cloaca (the enlarged part of the anus where the digestive, excretory, and reproductive systems exit) to make the roosters more energetic.
Legal or Not?
In Indonesia, all gambling has been prohibited by law since 1981. Big cockfighting tournaments for huge sums have seemingly disappeared. Thus, cockfighting can only legally occur for ceremonial purposes without betting or transactions. However, "the forbidden fruit tastes best," the lust for gambling is greater, and the reward for the winners is too tempting for locals to give up this traditional entertainment.
Thus, cockfighting, including gambling and betting, takes place in almost every village further afield, and the local police (Pecalang) or the state police directly only close their eyes if they do not participate themselves.
Local Police department is very often part of cockfighting scene
How to visit Tajen
If, as a tourist, you want to watch cockfighting, you can. But it is often challenging to find cockfights at all. As they are in a legal "grey area," they are not marked in any way and are usually held off the main roads and exposed spots in villages. If you ask random local men about "cock fights" or "tajen," you will learn that they are not organized or are only held twice a year in a ceremony as allowed by law.
The locals know that the tajen as it is done today is not legal, and they don't want a foreigner or potential animal activist or police officer in their midst. But we can guarantee that every man in the village knows precisely when and where the tajen takes place. So you have to ask the locals you know and who trust you at least a little bit, like the man at the laundry where you go every week or the waiter staff at the restaurant where they know you.
💡 Tip: Alternatively, here's a trick: ask children aged about 10 to 15. They are honest and will gladly guide you to the cockfighting arena.
Tajen Arena in MAS, Ubud
Once you've managed to track down the arena and enter the grounds, you'll probably be the only foreigner among the locals. At first, you won't be able to avoid the stares of the locals, but within seconds they'll all come back to why they're there and will probably eventually let you closer to the center of the arena.
Around Ubud, you can visit the tajen in one of the most famous arenas in the MAS village. Most locals from nearby and distant villages flock to attend the matches there. Big tournaments are also held in this arena. Cockfights are usually held here once a week. However, games may not be held for several weeks. Unfortunately, there is no official schedule, and it is challenging to get one. The ticket price is IDR 50,000. The location is shown on the map below.
Cockfights in Ubud are also held in front of the Pura Dalem Desa Pakraman Gelogor temple in the Lodtunduh area. See the map.
⚠️ Warning: For obvious reasons, no videos or photos are usually allowed inside the arena. As you will likely be the only tourist at the event, we do not recommend breaking this rule.
Parking place in front of middle sized Tajen tournament
Entrance to the Tajen area with entrance fee of IDR 20,000
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